Our guide Mehmet started the day by joking about how we’d all melt in the summer sun, which immediately relaxed everyone. The best part wasn’t even the big sights like the open-air museum, but a quiet moment in Paşabağ when he showed us a tiny faded painting inside a rock church and explained the story behind it. We were just two friends from far away, sitting on warm stone, listening. The minibus felt a bit crowded after Avanos, but the stop at the pottery workshop, where we could actually touch the clay and see the wheel in action, totally made up for it.